IMPORTANT NOTICE

 CONCERNING DISPOSAL

 OF AT&T SMOKE DETECTORS

AT&T SMOKE DETECTORS ARE REPAIRABLE UNITS.  If they  malfunction, do not toss them out, they are expensive. 

Call  Reliance Alarm Company for assistance to silence the  alarm until service can be arranged. 

In short, we will instruct you to remove the  batteries from the offending detector, and put it inside a sealed plastic bag, so we can later tell if bugs did it.

•We have had numerous cases where uninformed homeowners or well meaning members of the fire department have discarded AT&T  smoke detectors because of false alarms. 

•Usually,  these alarms are attributable to one of three  problems:    Dust accumulation, bugs or electronic failure.   All  of these can be fixed.

•The  detectors can not be replaced by department store  detectors because of the radio transmitter built inside the AT&T unit, which links the detector to the Central Control system.

•If  you discard a detector, we will have to charge you  for  a replacement, even if you have the optional Repair Contract.

 

WE HAVE LABELS AVAILABLE to warn persons not to discard the detector.  These were mailed to all our subscribers owning this system.  Please take the detector  down and stick the label to the back of the unit.  If you prefer,  put the labels and the copy of this letter that came with them at the Central Control Unit, and ask us to do it for you the next time we are there.

 

IMPORTANT NOTICE

CONCERNING CLEANING

OF AT&T SMOKE DETECTORS

AT&T SMOKE DETECTORS MUST BE CLEANED PERIODICALLY.  

If they are never cleaned, they Will cause false fire alarms! 

 

That  is the essential message.  You don't need to read any  further unless you happen to be interested.

General Information.  

There  are  two major types of smoke detectors.   One  type,  the "IONIZATION"  type, uses a radioactive element which  reacts  directly  with products of combustion.  This is the type of  detection  commonly found in cheap department store  detectors.   This type of detector is very sensitive to common household  phenomena such as frying of food, burnt toast and cleaning agents. 

The  "PHOTOELECTRONIC" type uses a light beam shining across  the inside of a dark chamber.  If smoke particles enter the  chamber, they  scatter  the light beam.  In a tunnel off the side  of  the main  chamber,  the scattered light hits a  photo  sensor.   Most central station alarms, including the AT&T 8000 system, use  this type  of detector, because it measures the actual density of  any smoke  present,  and  is more resistant to  the  nuisance  alarms described above.  However, it is prone to certain other types  of unwanted activation, including insects and dust accumulation.

  

INSECTS   include  spiders and small  cocoon-weaving  worms.   We recommend  that  you frequently examine the  spaces  around  each detector and brush away anything foreign that you may see.   When we  check  a system, we often will insert a mothball  inside  the detector  case.   However, this is a short-term  measure  because mothballs evaporate within a couple of months.  Insecticides  may kill away existing bugs, but are not a long term solution because EPA regulations require that they be biodegradable. 

  

DUST ACCUMULATION is a long term phenomenon with which you should be concerned.  It is the primary reason for this memo.  We note a regular  incidence  of  false alarms that  result  from  customer unawareness of this condition. 

The  inside walls of the dark detector chamber have a flat  black finish.   Very fine particles accumulate on the walls.  They  may not  even  be visible under direct scrutiny, but  they  gradually change the coloring of the chamber to gray, causing more and more light  to  be  scattered.  This makes the  unit  more  sensitive.  Finally, when the threshold of detection is exceeded, the  detector  goes  into alarm every time a battery is inserted.   If  you open  the  chamber and rub your finger across  the  inside  wall, often you can see a noticeable contrast.

The  rate of dust accumulation depends on environmental  factors.  These include dust from construction and hobby activity, the type of  heating  system,  the use of fireplaces  and  other  heaters, general commotion level, cooking and cleaning habits, etc.   Some environments  do  not  seem to cause  significant  dust  buildup, others need frequent attention. 

Our Recommendations.  

•Dust  accumulation is a concern with any brand  of  photoelectronic  detector.  However, we observe that the AT&T detector  is most  prone  to  dust problems if the detector is  mounted  on  a ceiling.  (We have discussed this problem with the  manufacturer, however,  no design update appears to be coming.)   We  therefore advocate moving these detectors onto a wall when it is  practical to  do  so, and when dust accumulation is noticeable.   This  can also eliminate the need for tall ladders.  (There is no  particular loss of coverage.  The edge of the detector must be at  least six inches away from any corner.) 

•It is important to cover up the units or take them out of  the room if dusty work or spray painting is to be done. 

•We  also recommend having your system checked by a  technician on a regular basis, typically annual.  While we are there, we can demonstrate  how to clean the detectors, if you would like to do it yourself the next time.

 

HOW YOU CAN CLEAN THE DETECTORS YOURSELF.   

Click Here to See Warnings Before Proceeding!

1.First call the central station and advise the operator you are working on your system. 

2.Press  the black release tab near the base of the detector.   The unit will swivel out.  Lift it off the hook at the opposite  side of the base. 

3.Lay the detector face down on a table and remove the two  batteries by gently prying them out with a screwdriver.  The unit  will make one or two chirps and then it will be quiet.  (If you forget to take the batteries out, the system will sound off and transmit a fire alarm when you open the smoke chamber in step 5.)

4.Look for the yellow warning label.  (Go ahead and read it.)  Just above  the label is a small rectangular hole.  Down in  the  hole you will see the edge of a flat white tab.  Use a screwdriver  to push  that tab toward the center of the unit.  This will  release the lid, and the black base can be swung up toward you.  Turn the unit over and lay it on its base with the white cover tipped away from you. 

5.Situated  on  an angle in the upper right corner is a  black  box which  stands on four stilts.  Two of these stilts, the  leftmost and  the  rightmost, have tabs that go down through  the  circuit board.   They hook outward to hold the box to the circuit  board.  With your thumb and forefinger, squeeze these two corners  toward each  other, and wiggle the box.  First the left, then the  right tab,  can  be  unhooked  and pulled out  of  the  circuit  board.  (Sometimes there is a tiny dab of silicone along the side of  the black box.  Go ahead and gently pull it free, or cut it.) 

6.You  will  end up holding the black smoke chamber in  your  hand.  Turn  it over and look inside it with a flashlight  for  spiders, webs,  cocoons  or dust.  They may be extremely fine,  look  very carefully!  (The inside of the chamber is supposed to be absolutely flat black.  If it has a gray cast, there could be very fine dust in it or it may have attracted some paint mist.  You can swipe the smooth angled surface (next to the corrugated bottom surface) with the ball of your little finger to see if the color changes.  If you can see a difference, it needs cleaning.  If it is not truly black and can't be darkened by cleaning, it may need to be replaced.)

7.You can gently lift out the wire screen, but be careful to put it back in the same direction.  Use a small, soft paintbrush to thoroughly dust  out  the chamber.  Do this even if it doesn't  look  dusty.  Then blow it out.  (Sometimes the dust is so fine it can't be brushed out.  You can use some liquid hand soap or dish detergent and lukewarm water on your brush to wash the chamber.  I have never cleaned one in a dishwasher, and I don't recommend it.  Don't drop the smoke chamber into the drain.  Make sure you don't leave any soap film behind.  Air drying is best, because paper towels, rags, etc. can leave lint.  It will take a while to dry.)  

8.Brush any dust or lint off the wire screen.  If it is greasy dirt, you may need to use some detergent on a small brush.

9.Observe the black detector assembly which was beneath the black box on the circuit board.  Spiders like to curl up in the space in front of the light source.  If you find any, get them out!  If they get away  and crawl down into the works, that is not good.  You  will need  to  get them out or kill them before placing  the  unit  in service.  One way is to put the whole thing in a plastic bag with a few mothballs and leave it sealed up for a few days.

10.Brush away any other dust or webs you may observe in the  innards of  the detector.  If there is noticeable dust or  black  residue  around  the inside of the white cover, the detector will  require more  frequent cleaning than others.  If the inside of the  cover looks  sooty,  have  your furnace flue checked, you  may  have  a carbon monoxide problem.

DO NOT IMMERSE THE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS!   Use  a  warm,   soapy cloth to clean the cover, then wipe it dry. 

To  reassemble:

1.Be sure to reinsert the wire screen in the  black box.  (For most, a notch in the side of the screen matches a  tab in  the chamber.)  

2.Note that the two stilts with hooks are different  sizes.  The larger one goes to the right.  Snap  the  box back  in place. 

3.Look around for leftover parts.  If  none,  snap the  cover  shut. 

4.Reinstall the batteries.  Make sure you install only Duracell™ alkaline batteries.  Many alternate brands do not fit the space properly.  Also, the detectors are only UL Listed when used with the specified batteries.  Make sure they snap down flat in their compartments.  You should feel a little "thump" as they seat.  If they are not fully seated, you will have trouble putting the unit back on its bracket.

5.Put it back on  its mounting bracket.  There is a hook on the bracket.  It goes into the edge of the detector base.  Then the rest of the unit will snap into place.  Don't force it, just wiggle it around a little and it will easily go into place.

 

TESTING:  

WARNING!   If  you test the smoke detector  without  setting  the "Test/Demo"  or "CC Test" mode, a fire alarm signal will be sent!  

 

•Even  if you set the Test/Demo or CC Test mode, we recommend that you be sure the Central Station is disregarding alarms before you proceed. ( Click Here for Help. On the linked page, steps 1, 2 and 2A are the minimum, but also take note of the remark under step 6.  The phone number and account number that are needed should be found on your Transmitter ID Card.  This card is typically kept in a slot in the top of the Central Controller cabinet.  You will also need your Pass Code.)

 

•It will be loud. Warn others who are on the premises.  Protect your ears as you hold the test button.

 

Depress the round white test  button  on the face of the detector.  You  will  need  to hold it for 15 to 30 seconds  before anything happens.  Then the detector will  squeal and a moment later the Central Control unit and any associated siren speakers will sound. 

To  stop  it all, go to the Central Control Unit.

•When you get there, the ID number of that smoke detector should be in the display.  Compare that number against the location described on the Transmitter ID card, to be sure the detectors have not been switched around with each other. 

 

•Touch  the "CANCEL" button. 

 

Repeat the test for each detector you have.

 

Clear out the system's internal event log by alternately pressing the "MESSAGES" and "CLEAR DISPLAY" buttons, until all you can get is "-0"